Day 23 – Friday, June 16

PCT Mile 430.4 to PCT Mile 454.5 Hiker Heaven, Agua Dulce

Day Total: 24.1 Miles

We got up very early this morning to try to get to the Acton KOA campground before the heat grounded us. We were hiking by 4:15 a.m. and covering ground quickly. It wasn't long until the morning light eliminated the need for our headlamps.

I used to like the long daylight hours around the Summer Solstice, but in the desert the long hours of sun make hiking tough. 

We made it to the North Fork Ranger Station a little after 6 a.m. Many hikers who had spent the night there were packing up to start hiking when we arrived.

There was a water cache and some trail magic in the form of Coca Cola at the ranger station. Stephen enjoyed an early morning Coke, along with his Snickers and honeybun.

If you do the math, that's enough sugar to power a vehicle. He was bouncing and singing his was down the trail this morning, a contrast to my grumpiness after not sleeping well. 

We arrived at the Acton KOA a little after 9 a.m. and it was already getting hot. The campground has several massive trees that created a shady area for us hikers to enjoy and about a dozen PCT hikers spent the day at the KOA.

We paid a day use fee and took showers and and spent some time in the refreshingly delightful swimming pool. Such a treat! We used the wifi, napped, drank a lot of water, and enjoyed a delivery pizza. It was a nice way to spend the unhikeable hours. 

The KOA receives hiker packages, so Stephen had his replacement pole tip sent there. He was excited to replace the worn down nubbin with a shiny new section.

 I'll take this opportunity to praise the hiking poles. We have seen a few hikers who don't use them, but for the most part everyone hikes with poles. They are incredibly useful on downhills, reducing the impact on  knees and ankles. This is especially important when our packs are bloated with many days of food and many liters of water. I find the poles arealso helpful on uphills, allowing me to use my arms to pull myself up even when my legs are exhausted. The poles also keep my arms and hands engaged, which is key to prevent the swelling phenomenon known as sausage fingers. 

We had 10 miles from the KOA to the much-anticipated trail angels' home in Agua Dulce known as Hiker Heaven.

They ask hikers to arrive by 9 p.m. to avoid disturbing their neighbors. Stephen and I left the KOA at 5 p.m. after soaking our hats in the cold water, and hiked hard to try to get there by 9. We crushed those miles, which wound across tree-less desert hills, under a freeway, and through a cool county park called Vasquez Rocks.

We got into town by 8:30 p.m. and found our way to the aptly named Hiker Heaven. 

We were greeted by a volunteer named Blossom, and several friendly dogs.

Blossom showed us the showers, the computer tent and the garage where they store hundreds upon hundreds of hiker resupply packages (there's no post office in Agua Dulce). They provided loaner clothes to wear while our laundry was being done. 

There were probably 30 other hikers there, hanging out on the porch and relaxing. Among them was Other Sarah, a hiker we had last seen at Paradise Valley Cafe, about 300 miles ago. It was great to catch up with her and hear that she's doing well. She works as a botanist for the Forest Service in Idaho, so she's taught us some new plants along the trail, although we all agree that every plant in the desert is conspiring to hurt us. They're all so stabby!

We're excited to be in Hiker Heaven – it really is an oasis in the desert.  (KAW)